|
| Bike I ride: | Many bikes, no shitty ones allowed. |
| Products Recommended: | none - View Products |
| Companies Supported: | none - View Companies |
| Stats: |
Photos: 0
Photo Views:
Videos: 0 Video Views: |
Some interesting info here, but not really, pretty obvious
Hardly a complete gathering of all the information required to know all you need to know about tubeless.
Sorta seems like he's focused on the obvious basic stuff, and not really mentioned anything that applies to the real choices of running tubeless.
Such as
The various and unpredictable size standards of tubeless tires
The various sizing standards of rims that are tubeless, or aren't, or are called good for both(bullshit)
The reliability of the mavic eyelet style rims meant for normal spokes and hubs. They're expensive, and aren't void of eyelet stripping problems, Burping, Etc.
It'd be nice to hear more about ghetto tubeless
And it would be nice to hear more about Stans
Not because i need the info, just in the interest of a more concise article.
I've already made my decisions. Stans for trail bikes, always with LUST tires. And forget about it for downhill.
Almost none of the world cup pro's use it so why should I?
Seems like the Athertons got a few flats this year. I'm not racing but flat tires piss me off. especially tubeless style flat tires where instantly your tire has no air and you're lying on the ground in pain wondering what the hell happened
What sounds very interesting however is the tube/tubeless system that some of the teams have experimented with.
Most importantly, finding what works for you and your style of riding, and where you ride is what matters most. Because theres a lot of stuff out there that doesn't work well (kinda like most bike part situations) and could hurt you seriously.
the sun phat alberts were a failure because of the design of them not the size of them. they were single wall. you could easily build a rim that wide that isn't a failure if you used modern rim design.
amazing, those things used to blow up in the parking lot if you wanted them too, or, even better, at the face of a jump you've just sprinted at.
new internals?
its amazing he finishes any enduro races running wtb hubs
it wasn't the nationals. they're in adelaide.
Downtoearth. its definitely not all about experience. its about quality control and giving a shit about making a good product. i could make millions of something shittily and it would be shit even though i have loads of experience.
i've dealt with taiwan. they're only interested in sending you boat loads of crap and getting you to pay for it before you realize its been made poorly. this happens to every company that deals with overseas production. it doesn't matter much with shoes or tv sets. but it sure does with handlebars, seatposts, or fork crowns and steerers.
unfortunately a north american product can fall subject to the same problems when the sales department needs to sell shit too.
the most important thing?
buy legitimately, if you can afford to. have spares, and warranty everything thats fails. buying shit on credit cards that have extended purchase protection is sweet too.
I don't think self righteousness has anything to do with it. But anyway, like I said. Buy it if you can afford it. Don't if you can't.
My otterbox annoys the shit out of me. But i have to ride with my phone and it seemed like the only option at the time. Hard to get in and out of my pockets and always pulls other shit out with it. i suppose it won't go flying out of my pocket when i ride which is good. but sometimes my wallet or cash comes out too. its trained me to put the right shit in the right pockets though. apparently theres another option made my andrew taylors company? tell us about this one Pinkbike.
Awesome!
Awesome Hustler.
support local when you can, if you can't buy taiwan. but admittedly most shitty qr clamps coming from taiwan last about 6 months. If oiled sometimes, the chromag one will last forever. the real problem is the shitty frames made in taiwan that the clamp is mounted too. the seat tube O.D, and seat post I.D. diameters are never consistent enough to allow the qr to do a good job of clamping. the solution being pop can shims. or buying a good quality frame not made in taiwan. And if they can't get the diameter of the seat tube consistent, how good do you thing the important pats of the frames are? like the headset bore, or the bearing press i'd's?
if we want to save our world. we're all gonna have to realize we can't rely on shitty cheap stuff from taiwan forever.
Support local business, Save the world.
this means companies too. we all know lots of North American companies get lots of stuff made in Taiwan. This will have to change some way someday soon.
yes waki something must have been missed in your translation. obviously riding with your seat way too low is for slow inexperienced people. but your first comment implied that we should all learn to ride with our seats up.
Stand by your words Mike. You are bang on. I've owned and/or worked on the others and they're all relative failures in comparison. Certainly not saying the Reverb has been absolute perfection, They've had a few issues but all easily fixable.
I would suggest people get the left side control if they run front and rear gears and ride back brake right. It seems a lot safer to go for the lever and unguard your grip of bar and brake on the front than the back brake. Cuz when you want that thing down at speed, you really want it down. About Us
ContactsAdvertise
AdvertisingCool Features
Pinkbike DailyRSS
Pinkbike RSS Feed
Delete
2 seconds ago